Baika-sai coincides with one of the city's biggest market days, so you can expect Kitano Tenmangū (北野天満宮) to be bustling today!
To celebrate Baika-sai at Kitano Tenman-gū (北野天満宮), geisha and maiko from the Kamishichiken district (上七軒) serve hundreds of eager guests in an outdoor tea ceremony.
laughing politely
while tea is served...
Buddha
摂待のあいそに笑ひ仏かな
-Kobayashi Issa (小林一茶).
Trans. David G. Lanoue.
PLUM BLOSSOM FESTIVAL
In the Kyōto calendar there are a few times each year when the public is able to rub shoulders with maiko and geiko for a small fee.
During 'Baika-sai' (梅花祭) they serve tea beside Kitano Tenman-gū's plum orchard.
plum blossoms-
singing Tenjin's sutra
a sparrow
梅咲や天神経をなく雀
-Issa.
1)
Kitano Tenman-gū (北野天満宮) is undoubtedly the home of ume blossoms in Kyotō.
Sugawara-no-Michizane (菅原道真 845-903), deified here as the god of scholarship, was passionate about plum blossoms (his favourite tree even flew to him in exile!).
From mid-February the shrine's orchard of ume trees opens.
PLUM BLOSSOM FESTIVAL
In the Kyōto calendar there are a few times each year when the public is able to rub shoulders with maiko and geiko for a small fee.
During 'Baika-sai' (梅花祭), reduced in scale this year, geisha and maiko serve tea beside Kitano Tenman-gū's plum orchard.
1) Kitano Tenman-gū (北野天満宮) is undoubtedly the home of ume blossoms in Kyotō.
Sugawara-no-Michizane (菅原道真 845-903), deified here as the god of scholarship and learning, was passionate about plum blossoms.
From mid-February the shrine's orchard of ume trees opens, and on February 25th geisha and maiko gather for the Baika-sai (plum blossom festival).
One of the best preserved sections of the Odoi (御土居) is at Kitano Tenman-gū (北野天満宮).
Usually out-of-bounds, the Odoi remnant is opened up for visitors during the spring and autumn seasons (for a fee of course).
Straddling the Tenjin-gawa (used in place of a moat along this stretch of the Odoi), Uguisu-bashi (鶯橋) is so-named because bush warblers were once common here.
Although the city limits had moved beyond the berm by 1630, the Odoi existed remarkably intact until the late 19thC.
The Odoi (御土居) was an earthen berm, erected at the very beginning of 1591 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉).
Standing just short of 5m tall, the 22.5km embankment encircled the city with an outer moat (where there weren't rivers) and numerous 'gates'.
AUTUMN AT KYŌTO'S GREAT WALL
During fall Kitano Tenmangū allows guests to enjoy the maples that grow along the Odoi (御土居). Now mostly leveled, this great berm was created by Toyotomi Hideyoshi to encircle and define the boundaries of the city.
One of Kitano Tenman-gū's (北野天満宮) famed 'stroking cows' (撫牛 'nade-ushi') watches over a hana-chōzu' (花手水).
Even the smallest Tenman-gū shrine will usually have an ox statue somewhere in its grounds. Most are depicted lying down, in connection with Sugawara-no-Michizane's death (he is deified at the shrine).
The statues are known as 'stroking cows' (撫牛 'nade-ushi'), as people rub them for good luck, intelligence and health.